I have a grasscarp with one very protruding eye. it is not cloudy, but on looking a bit closer it seems that there is fluid behind the top layer over the eye. he is fine in himself. Any ideas please.

Dawn

Popeye, or exophthalmia is the condition of an eye wherein it protrudes from its normal position in a socket. For years in the literature, the causes of exophthalmia were few, and almost all literature surveyed suggested it was a mycobacterial infection, or Tuberculosis forming an abscess or granuloma behind the eye. In this case, that may very well be true, and you should be aware that there are few drugs effective against piscine tuberculosis, there are even fewer that can access the space behind the eye. In humans,m these infections are still hard to treat becasue the space behind the eye is isolated from real good vascular supply. As well, tuberculosis, particularly the one for fish, is transmissable to humans through open sores. I'm not saying it's always TB, but it could be, so avoid contact. Other causes of pop eye include viral and other causes of inflammation to the Choroid or vessels leading to the eyeball itself, and trauma ranks high in this group. If the eye does not get picked OFF when it protrudes like this, it is entirely possible that it could actually pull back in as the swelling behind the eye reduces. Let me say a word or two more about bacterial or TB pop eye. It spreads slowly, and gets its foothold through stress. Be sure water quality is optimal, and that the diet and temperature are perfect for the chosen species you maintain. You can try antibiotics with this, even injected ones if the fish warrants it, but I really suggest you not get your hopes up.

No matter what you ultimately do about this condition, please, FIRST, check your water for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. To learn more about these several important water quality parameters, please see this link. Establish that the Ph is higher than 7.0 using any of the many great test kits available. To raise pH you could use Baking Soda for the "quick fix" and then follow it up with a buffer. Make sure, too, that you have seen KoiCrisis.com - You can click on the fish there to get specific information about treatments and options.

Want a shotgun remedy for use on parasites and bacteria once you've ruled out crowding, poor water, high nitrogen or low pH?

Here's a perfect shotgun remedy that won't hurt fish:

(1) Salt to 0.3 or 0.6%
(2) Warm the fish no faster than one degree per hour, up to the mid seventies, or if you want to combat Koi Herpes Virus, use the same "one degree per hour" heating from their ambient temperature up to 86°F
(3) MediKoi food is, in my estimation, by far the best made, best formulated medicated food. It will help control bacterial infections.
(4) Dimilin handily controls comparatively rare but large parasites like Anchor Worms and Fish Lice.
(5) Prazi or Prazi containing medications controlf Flukes on Koi and Goldfish best.

Using all of the above at the same time can be highly successful against most parasitisms and infections. The space in which this is done should be the largest possible (100+ gallons), with plenty of hiding-cover, algae or live plants, and plenty of wter turnover for aeration. This protocol could be hampered when applied to salt-resistant Costia. A Formalin treatment on the way into the quarantine where the above will be applied will break the lifecycle of Costia and prevent it emerging in the quarantine tank.

Thank you for your consideration.

Dr. Erik Johnson